Down in Na Pali. Best moment of my life. Water so clear. Sand so grainy.
Waves big enough to keep most people on the sand.
It’s a poor quality photo (and probably not the most flattering), but it means so much to me. I know I’ve blogged about this moment before, years ago, but I’m doing it again. I remember the exact moment it was taken, after riding a wave in, then turning and seeing my brother up on the sand with my crummy little digital camera.
When people ask you about the best moment of your life, is it something like this?
Or, was it when you won a certain award or gave birth to your children or met someone or a maybe a certain birthday?
For me, it is this moment, right here, all those years ago, back in Kauai. Christmas time with the Sun shining, and the water churning, tossing me like laundry in a washer. Family on the beach. My Dad carrying his fins out of the water. People laughing. Waves roaring like thunder. My chubby little sister playing with sand on her cheeks, her long, braided hair looking like two beat up ropes from a tugboat.
There is nothing in the world that feels as good to me as getting tossed around by a wave, RogueRanters. I am convinced. Drugs, power, sex, not even love- I’m afraid none of it beat a good churn.
It’s like God and the Devil are playing tug-o-war with your body.
